Philosophiae Doctor (PhD) Thesis 2020:6
Viktorija Vičiūnaitė
Moving towards sustainability:
business models and entrepreneurship in the Norwegian wool industry
På sporet av bærekraft: forretningsmodeller og entreprenørskap i norsk ullindustri
Philosophiae Doctor (PhD), Thesis 2020:6Viktorija Vičiūnaitė
Norwegian University of Life Sciences School of Economics and Business
Moving towards sustainability: business models and entrepreneurship in the Norwegian wool industry
Å bevege seg mot bærekraft: forretningsmodeller og entreprenørskap i norsk ullindustri
Philosophiae Doctor (PhD) Thesis Viktorija Vičiūnaitė
Norwegian University of Life Sciences School of Economics and Business
Ås (2020)
Thesis number 2020:6 ISSN 1894-6402 ISBN 978-82-575-1672-7
Acknowledgements
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Contents
ͳǤ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳͳ ͳǤͳǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳͳ ͳǤʹǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳ͵
ͳǤ͵Ǥ Ȃ
ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳͷ ͳǤͶǤ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳ
ʹǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳͺ ʹǤͳǤǦ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤͳͺ ʹǤʹǤ ǣ
ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹͲ
͵ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹʹ
͵ǤͳǤ ǤǤǤǤǤʹ͵
͵ǤʹǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹͶ
͵Ǥ͵Ǥ Ȃ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹͷ ͶǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹ
ͶǤͳǤ ͳ Ȃ
ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹ
ͶǤʹǤʹȂ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹͺ ͶǤ͵Ǥ͵Ȃ ǣ Ǧ
ǯ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤʹͻ
ͶǤͶǤͶȂ ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤ͵Ͳ ͷǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤ͵ͳ
ǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤǤ͵͵
ͳ
ʹ
͵ǤǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǤͺͳ
ͶǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǤǤǤǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǤǤǤǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǥǤǤǤǥǥǤͳʹͳ
List of papers
ǣ
ͳǤ Informing sustainable business models with a consumer preference perspective
ǣ
Journal of Cleaner Production
ʹǤ Translating sustainable business models to consumers
ǣ
Organization & Environment
͵Ǥ Localizing opportunities and industries in networks: a study of micro- entrepreneurs’ embedded learning practices
ǣÞǡ Ǥ Þ
International Small Business Journal
ͶǤ The role of effectual networking in small business marketing
ǣÞǡ Ǥ Þ
Journal of Small Business and Enterprise Development
Summary
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Introduction
1. Background and context
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1.1. Sustainability and the textile industry
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Ȍ ǡ ȋ Ǥǡ ʹͲͳʹǢ
ǤǡʹͲͳͺǢǤǡʹͲͲͺǢƬǡʹͲͳͺǢeǡʹͲͳͻȌǤ
ȋǤǡʹͲͳͺȌ
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ȋ
ǤǡʹͲͳͶȌǤ Ͷ
ǡȋȌȋǤǡʹͲͳͶȌ
ʹǦͳͲΨ ǯ ȋeǡʹͲͳͻȌǤ
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ȋ Ȍ ͳǡ
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ȋǤǡʹͲͳͻǢǤǡʹͲͳͺȌ
ȋǡʹͲͳͶǢƬǡʹͲͳͺȌǤǤȋʹͲͳͶȌ
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ȋ Ǥǡ ʹͲͳͻȌ
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ͺͲΨͳͻͻͷǦʹͲͳͲȋƬ
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ȋƬǡʹͲͳȌǤ
ǡ ȋeǡʹͲͳͻȌǤ
ȋȌ ȋǤǡʹͲͳͺȌ
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ȋǦǤǡʹͲͳȌǤ
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,WWDNHVLQWRDFFRXQWVWDJHVIURPUDZPDWHULDOSURGXFWLRQWRWKHILQLVKHGPDWHULDOWKDWFDQEHDVVHPEOHGLQWRD SURGXFW
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1.2. Norwegian wool in the global wool sustainability debate
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ǤͺʹΨ
ȋǤǡʹͲͳͻȌǡ
ȋͳǤʹΨʹͲͳͶȋ ǡʹͲͳͷȌȌǤ
ȋ Ƭ ǡ ʹͲͳȌǡ
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7KHHTXLYDOHQWHVWLPDWHIRUDGDLU\FRZLVDURXQGOLWUHVSHUDQLPDOGDLO\
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ȋ Ǥǡ ʹͲͳͻȌǢ ȋǡ ʹͲͳͻ ȌǤ
ǡ ȋǤǡʹͲͳͻȌǤ
ͶȋǤǡ ʹͲͳȌ ǡ
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Ǯǯ Ǯ ǯ ʹͲǦ͵Ͳ dz ȋǡ ʹͲͳͻȌǤ
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:RROLVPRUHFRPPRQWRXVHLQFHUWDLQW\SHVRIJDUPHQWVVXFKDVRXWHUFRDWVRUVZHDWHUVZKLFKKDYHGLIIHUHQW XVHSDWWHUQVWKDQHJDEDVLF7VKLUWDOWKRXJKLQFRXQWULHVOLNH1RUZD\ZRROLVLQFUHDVLQJO\SRSXODULQVXPPHU JDUPHQWVOLNH7VKLUWVDVZHOO1RQHWKHOHVVWKHOLIHVSDQILQGLQJVKRXOGEHLQWHUSUHWHGZLWKFDXWLRQ
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1.3. The KRUS project ± creating knowledge on the opportunities and challenges in the Norwegian wool industry
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1.4. Objectives of the thesis
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2. Theory
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2.1. The sustainable business modelconsumer interface
ȋ Ǥǡ ʹͲͲͷǢ ǡ ʹͲͳͲȌǤ
ȋƬòǦ ǡʹͲͳ͵Ȍ
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2.2. Entrepreneurship: moving forward under uncertainty and resource constraints
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